Hibiscus: Discover Fresh Flavours from West Africa with the Observer Rising Star of Food 2017
Lope Ariyo
‘I’m genuinely inspired.’ – Yotam Ottolenghi‘For all its richness and mindboggling variety, African food has yet to cross over in the UK. With her freewheeling, boldly flavourful take on Nigerian cuisine, Lopè Ariyo could be the person to make it happen.’ – ObserverLopè Ariyo is the rising star of African cooking and Hibiscus, her first book, is packed with delicious dishes. An energetic and supremely talented cook, Lopè creates fresh, fuss-free meals that are full of flavour. With chapters including Fruits, Vegetables & Tubers; Grains & Pulses; Meat & Poultry and Baking & Desserts, there’s something for every occasion and for everyone.Nigerian-inspired flavours and cooking methods can transform everyday dishes into something spectacular. Whether it’s experimenting with new ingredients (Hibiscus Chicken), reimagining old favourites (Grapefruit and Guava Cheesecake; Baked Kuli Kuli Cod with Cayenne Yam Chips; Lagos Mess), exploring different techniques (Cheat’s Ogi, Chin Chin) or finding alternatives to everyday staples (Plantain Mash with Ginger, Corn and Okra Gravy; Nigerian Roast Veg), Lopè will help you discover all that modern Nigerian food has to offer.
COPYRIGHT (#ulink_1e7e561b-b4e3-5ab6-a810-8cae63f15884)
HarperCollinsPublishers
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First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2017
FIRST EDITION
© Lopè Ariyo 2017
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Source ISBN 9780008225384
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DEDICATION (#ulink_94ee1193-159d-517f-81cb-6c040d7543eb)
For my mother,
the woman who gave me the tools, space and encouragement to dream and create (even if you didn’t initially agree with the food I conjured up)
CONTENTS
COVER (#uf255b7b3-5d6f-5da3-b55f-cc89b1dfd519)
TITLE PAGE (#ud7b86c92-23bc-5dd9-9525-17ba4de940f7)
COPYRIGHT (#ulink_cce5262c-b319-51ec-a643-44a394f8a891)
DEDICATION (#ulink_27e69983-0392-5466-b37b-7ae3364523de)
INTRODUCTION (#ulink_6fdfc3cd-67be-5246-af39-641f1372351d)
MY STORE CUPBOARD (#ulink_5945146f-775d-5c4f-bfcb-f78139ffce00)
FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND TUBERS (#ulink_be81cce0-b9cd-5aeb-863f-97daf0a077cf)
BELL PEPPER SOUP (#ulink_afed52a1-991b-5da0-8d80-b75dc207b18a)
EGUSI SOUP (#ulink_5b3ee457-7800-54e1-99d8-9f6a27a45211)
ATA SALAD
OKRA AND MANGO SALAD
FROZEN WATERMELON AND CUCUMBER SALAD
FENNEL AND MANGO SLAW
HASSELBACK PLANTAINS WITH MUSHROOM STEAK
OKELE
EBA
AMALA ISU
PLANTAIN MASH WITH GINGER CORN AND OKRA GRAVY
AMALA CRACKERS WITH ONIONS GALORE
NIGERIAN ROASTED VEG
SWEET POTATO MEDLEY WITH A TARRAGON DRESSING
UNCLE YOMI’S BAKED EGGS WITH YAM
YAM POTTAGE
GRAINS AND PULSES
CORN SOUP
BEAN SOUP
BLACK RICE BALLS
JOLLOF RICE
JOLLOF CAULIFLOWER ‘RICE’
FRIED COCONUT RICE
PLANTAIN, BEAN AND AVOCADO RICE SALAD
ABEOKUTA BOWL
BELL PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CARROT RICE FUFU
HERBY MILLET WITH GREEN BEANS
ONION MILLET WITH ROASTED GARRI TOMATOES
BEAN FRITTERS
MOIN MOIN
JAND BOWL
SAVOURY MILLET PORRIDGE
RICE CRUMPET
FISH AND SEAFOOD
CRAB AND YAM PEPPER SOUP
SEA BASS AND AUBERGINE SOUP
BAOBAB AND SMOKED SALMON SOUP
SEAFOOD OKRA SOUP
MACKEREL AND ABACHA SALAD
HIBISCUS AND SUMAC PRAWNS
GUAVA SALMON CAKES
EGUSI PRAWN BALLS
IJEBU FISH ROLLS
BAKED AYAMASE TILAPIA ROLL UPS
SEARED SCALLOPS IN GRAPEFRUIT SAUCE
MORINGA AND LEMON SCALLOPS
CHARGRILLED SCOTCH SQUID
CASSAVA STUFFED MUSSELS
PEANUT AND GARRI CALAMARI RINGS
TUNA SKEWERS WITH OVEN-BAKED PLANTAIN WEDGES
OSUN’S SOLE
ATAMA LOBSTER TAILS
PRAWN CURRY
SPICY GRILLED TILAPIA
BAKED KULI KULI COD WITH CAYENNE YAM CHIPS
LEMON AND THYME SEA BASS WITH GARDEN EGG CROQUETTES
STICKY PINEAPPLE COD
PALM OIL HALIBUT BAKED IN UMA LEAVES
BAOBAB TROUT
MEAT AND POULTRY
MUM’S GRILLED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS
HIBISCUS CHICKEN
MALT-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS
AMINA’S CHICKEN
ROAST GRAPEFRUIT AND TURMERIC CHICKEN
PUMPKIN SOUP WITH TURKEY
GRILLED NIGERIAN BASIL TURKEY
DUCK LEGS IN GUAVA SAUCE
KOLA BUTTERFLIED GUINEA FOWL
PINEAPPLE AND HIBISCUS STUFFED PORK LOIN
PALM WINE PORK CHOPS
NIGERIAN-STYLE MEATBALLS
STICKY TAMARIND PORK RIBS
SUYA LAMB CURRY
NIGERIAN-STYLE LAMB PIES
SPINACH AND LAMB STEW
BAOBAB LAMB CUTLETS
BEEF AND AMALA STEW POT
MALT BRAISED BEEF
SUYA BEEF BURGERS
MORINGA AND BEEF STEW WITH BEAN DUMPLINGS
STACKED SHANGO BEEF STEAKS
SEARED VENISON IN UDA SAUCE
BAKING AND DESSERTS
BRAIDED AGEGE BREAD
PUFF PUFF
CHOCOLATE CHILLI PUFF PUFF
HIBISCUS DRIZZLE PUFF PUFF
ABIGAIL’S SPICY BANANA BREAD
GARRI AND CACAO BARS
PEANUT AND TOFFEE BARS
CHIN CHIN
COFFEE CHIN CHIN
LEMON CHIN CHIN
AMALA CHOCOLATE MUFFINS
KULI KULI
HIBISCUS AND COCONUT CAKE
CHEAT’S OGI
MANGO OGI TART
PLANTAIN CRÊPES
LAGOS MESS
HIBISCUS POACHED PEARS
GRAPEFRUIT AND GUAVA CHEESECAKE
PLANTAIN ICE CREAM
PEANUT POPCORN
MADAM KOIN KOIN
MANGO AND COCONUT PARFAIT
LIST OF SEARCHABLE TERMS
CONVERSION CHARTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
INTRODUCTION (#ulink_cb257c70-8416-5874-a7c6-63179008c595)
My experiences from childhood, school and university have shaped the way I cook and my food has become an expression of who I am. Born and raised in London, I have very early memories of taking trips to Brixton or Croydon market with my mother, Debbie, on Saturdays. We would always visit the vegetable stalls first, followed by the meat and fish stalls where I would do my best to hold my breath for as long as I could. The market was always so congested that I stayed glued to my mother for fear that I would get lost. When we got back home, I would help out in the kitchen as she prepared something like tomato stew or okra soup. I can vividly recall my mother blending and frying the tomatoes, finely chopping the okra and pounding ground rice in hot water with a wooden spoon. The splashes of tomato juice would trickle down the tiles as the stew boiled aggressively, the stove would sizzle as some of the okra soup escaped the pot and, to the delight of my nose, the smell of caramelized chicken crept slowly from the oven. Her approach to cooking has always been to create dishes that are quick and easy. This weekend ritual provided my first experiences of Nigerian cooking.
My mother raised me to be hardworking, honest and independent, and she also thought it was important for me to learn about my Nigerian roots and to connect with my extended family and culture. So in 2003, I went to an all-girls boarding school in Lagos, Nigeria. Initially it was daunting, but as I made friends and got into the routine, I became more open to the Lagos way of life. I came back to London for secondary school, bringing with me a strong sense of culture, solid friendships and an enriched appreciation of Nigerian food. I started cooking more and more, alternating between British and Nigerian meals to keep my cravings for the aromatic flavours to which I’d become accustomed at bay. I would mimic the dishes of beans and plantains or yam and spicy tomato stew that we were served at boarding school – simple dishes that were perfect for weekdays.
I met my closest friends in the sixth form and during our free periods, we would go to the shop to buy sandwiches, Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, cakes and elderflower and blackcurrant cordials to have mini picnics. Since not one of us had the same ethnic background, we’d always bring a dish that represented our own cultural history, too. We taught each other about ingredients and introduced each other to new flavours, and I discovered how joyful it was to invite them over and cook for them. This was one of the things I missed most when I first went to university. When I rang home, my mother would usually ask ‘Have you eaten?’ or ‘Are you hungry?’, as is the norm with most West African parents when their children are sad or moody. I found solace from homesickness in the kitchen and soon my housemates, who knew little about Nigerian culture, came to rely on me for ingredient and spice suggestions. We ended up cooking meals together, whether British, Nigerian or a mix of both cuisines. I realized that in the kitchen I was able to create a home away from home, no matter where I was.
For me, British and Nigerian influences are equally important – I like to merge the best aspects of both. I love the combinations of ingredients (especially the spices) used in Nigeria and West Africa, whereas British or European cooking tends to offer more time-effective methods. I am passionate about West African food because it promotes the use of fresh, natural ingredients and the emphasis is on taking care of your body without overthinking things. Our food is all about caring and hospitality – bringing people closer together and making people feel happy. Behind each dish, there is a story to share.
Globalization and multiculturalism are doing much to promote West African food and culture in the UK. However, there aren’t many high-profile figures who champion West African food in this country, so I want to share my culture and inspire other British Africans to tell their stories through food. I think representation matters, so if someone can see a little bit of themselves in me, I hope they’re encouraged to pursue their own ideas and express themselves through what they cook as I have done. More than ever before, African foods are readily available in supermarkets and online. Despite this, they’re not bought as much as they might be because there’s little understanding of how to use these ingredients. I’ve witnessed people trying West African food and I’ve seen the intrigue it sparks on their taste buds – they want to know about the flavours and how to make it. There are a growing number of cafés and restaurants serving West African food, but recreating these dishes at home is still out of reach for many.
Hibiscus is my first cookbook and I hope to show you a glimpse of what West African-inspired food has to offer. From over 200 of the ethnic groups in Nigeria, I’ve primarily focused on the cuisine of three: Yoruba, Igbo and Hausa. My aim is to create fresh, flavourful meals for every occasion. There are ingredients that you may never have come across (although I’ll always try to provide an alternative where possible) and new cooking methods and techniques to try, too. You’ll also find British classics with a Nigerian twist and rejuvenated recipes for everyday staples that make use of underappreciated flavour combinations. I hope these recipes can transform your cooking into something spectacular, the way they have mine.
MY STORE CUPBOARD (#ulink_41b05efe-f188-5145-9be6-0a6f0fa52004)
It’s much easier to find ingredients that are used in Nigeria in Western supermarkets nowadays, especially if you live in a city. I must confess that I am a big online food shopper – a habit (or skill, in my opinion!) I picked up at university. So, if you struggle to find anything that features in the book, do have a browse online. Many of the ingredients used in Nigerian cuisine can also be found in health-food stores, as they’re considered superfoods here.
In Hibiscus, you’ll find a few exotic ingredients that you may never before have associated with Nigeria. I’m hoping (and happy!) to introduce you to some new ingredients, too. I love to experiment with novel flavours and find it incredibly rewarding, particularly when I serve something and an inquisitive look comes across everyone’s face – tasting something they’ve never experienced, something they can’t quite put their finger on. Below are my go-to ingredients and I’ve provided a description of the slightly more unusual ones.
FRESH INGREDIENTS
1. YAMS
2. CASSAVA
3. SWEET POTATO
4. SHALLOT
5. GINGER
6. MANGO
7. PEPPERS
8. TURMERIC
9. LONG RED CHILLI
10. GARLIC
11. SCOTCH BONNET CHILLI
12. LIME
13. AVOCADO
14. OKRA
15. GARDEN EGGS
16. PLANTAINS
YAMS are tubers with an inedible dark brown bark and a white flesh that should be completely soft before being eaten. When cooked, yams are very similar in texture to Maris Piper potatoes, but with more natural sweetness. Typically, they’re eaten boiled but you can cook yams just as you would cook potatoes. They’re also dried out in the sun and processed to make a flour (labelled elubo isu in African grocery stores), which can be used for Okele or to make dumplings (Beef and Amala Stew Pot) and muffins (Amala Chocolate Muffins).
CASSAVA is a large tuber with brown bark and hard, white flesh. When cooked, it has a somewhat tangy, sourdough-like taste. Like most tubers, it can be eaten boiled, steamed, roasted or fried. It’s also milled into a flour that is typically used for making Okele, or processed to make garri.
SCOTCH BONNET CHILLI is an essential aromatic used in Nigeria, where many people like their food extremely spicy. It’s fine, however, to use regular long chillies if you’re not keen on extra-spicy food.
OKRA, also called lady fingers, are green pods with white seeds, generally no bigger than the size of a finger. They can be eaten raw and turn slimy when overcooked. Quite plain in taste, okra are great at absorbing flavours from herbs, spices and other vegetables.
GARDEN EGGS are not to be confused with eggplants (the American name for aubergines), although they belong to the same family and are similar in texture, albeit slightly softer. They’re round and white in colour (hence the name), and are best eaten cooked. I enjoy them roasted and eaten with other vegetables, such as in my Nigerian Roasted Veg.
PLANTAINS look similar to bananas (they are a member of the same family), but are much larger and also have squarer ends. They’re also less sweet, which makes them incredibly versatile, and they can be used in sweet and savoury dishes.
HERBS AND SPICES
1. CAYENNE PEPPER
2. EFIRIN
3. EGUSI SEEDS
4. DRIED BIRDSEYE CHILLIES
5. DRIED OREGANO
6. CLOVES
7. COCONUT FLAKES
8. HIBISCUS
9. PAPRIKA
10. BAOBAB
11. PEPPERCORNS
12. NUTMEG
13. DRIED BAY LEAVES
14. CUMIN SEEDS
15. CASSAVA FLOUR
16. CHILLI FLAKES
17. FINE-CUT DRIED HIBISCUS
18. DRIED THYME
19. CINNAMON
20. GARLIC GRANULES
21. UDA
22. GARLIC
23. GROUND GINGER
24. GROUND TURMERIC
25. CELERY SALT
CAROB
MORINGA
PALM JUICE, WINE AND VINEGAR
RED PALM OIL
KOLA NUTS
GARRI
BEAN FLOUR
ATAMA
CAYENNE PEPPER is used a lot in Nigerian cooking – usually dried whole peppers rather than its powdered form. Nigerian dishes are more likely to be seasoned with cayenne pepper than black pepper because of Nigerian fondness for spice.
EFIRIN, also known as clove basil, is a herb with waxy, jagged leaves. It is primarily used to flavour soups in Nigeria, although it’s so versatile that I use it in all sorts of dishes. Common basil is a good substitute.
EGUSI SEEDS are found inside gourds such as pumpkins and melons. They’re like very flat blanched almonds in appearance, and emit a nutty aroma when toasted. Generally, they’re ground and used to thicken soups and stews.
HIBISCUS is a purplish-red flower with a zesty cranberry flavour. The petals are often dried, so it can be enjoyed all year round. It’s an incredibly versatile ingredient and can be used in savoury dishes with meats and in sweet recipes, too.
BAOBAB trees produce pods, in which you will find the fruit – cubes that look like fluffy, white marshmallows. In Nigeria, the fruit is snacked on because of its refreshing taste. For export, it’s generally dried and processed to a nutrient-packed powder that can be found in health stores. The leaves of the baobab tree are also used for adding flavour to soups and stews.
UDA, also called Selim pepper, is native to West Africa and is often used in stews and soups. It looks like a vanilla pod, only with a thicker exterior, and the berries inside are chestnut brown with a fragrant, lemony-wood scent. They’re used in the marinade for a popular Nigerian street food, suya.
CAROB, or locust bean, is a tropical pod containing a sweet pulp that is dried and ground to a chocolatey brown powder.
MORINGA is a tree widely cultivated in northern Nigeria, where its leaves are primarily eaten in soups. Its powdered form is a vivid green colour not dissimilar from matcha powder. It has a sharp taste with nutty accents.
PALM JUICE, WINE AND VINEGAR are made from palm tree sap. Upon extraction, it is a naturally sweet juice. Within a few hours, it ferments and turns to wine with a low alcohol content. Left much longer, it turns to palm vinegar.
RED PALM OIL has a unique sweet flavour with mild hints of carrot and is a similar consistency to coconut oil. In West Africa it is harvested sustainably and used in its raw form. Try to find brands that responsibly source their palm oil. If you can’t find palm oil, you can cook with any other oil but the flavour and colour won’t be the same – I’ve pointed out when really only palm oil will do!
KOLA NUTS are the main flavouring in a certain popular soft drink. The reddish-brown nut is high in caffeine and generally tastes bitter, so is often mixed with sugar. In Igbo culture, they are usually eaten whole and offered as a sign of hospitality.
GARRI is cassava that has been completely dried in the sun and shredded down to breadcrumb size. It is used to make Eba or is soaked in water and eaten like breakfast cereal with a sprinkling of sugar.
BEAN FLOUR is most commonly made from brown honey beans in Nigeria. They’re de-hulled, dried and milled, and the resulting off-white flour is typically used to make Moin Moin, a steamed bean cake, and Akara, bean fritters.
ATAMA is a herb with a liquorice-like scent, very similar to tarragon, which can be used as a substitute, although its leaves are much wider – more like those of the bay tree. It can be used dried or fresh, but the former has a much more intense flavour.
(#ulink_2671b207-4da7-5dcd-bb53-ac23a4f1081a)
BELL PEPPER SOUP (#ulink_bf7aa3f9-ee25-5d79-8aa6-a8dadf1d758e)
Obe Ata (Yoruba)
It wouldn’t be right to have a Nigerian cookbook and not include Obe Ata. Obe means soup in Yoruba and ata means pepper. In Nigeria, soups are usually made by blending the ingredients first and then cooking them in oils and flavoured stock. When made this way, they develop a vibrant colour. Most are ruby red, rich gold or bright, emerald green, encapsulating Nigerian food to a T: rich in flavour and beautiful to look at. This recipe is really quite spicy, so feel free to reduce or omit the chilli according to your taste buds! Serve with some Agege Bread or brioche, with rice spooned on top, or with Okele.
PREP TIME: 10 MINS
COOKING TIME: 20 MINS
SERVES: 4
2 large red peppers, chopped
4 salad tomatoes, halved
2 white onions, halved
2 celery sticks, chopped (optional)
4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (optional)
2 tbsp palm oil or coconut oil
1 beef, chicken or vegetable stock cube
1 tsp garlic granules
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1 tbsp carob powder (optional)
2 Scotch bonnet chillies, deseeded (if preferred) and finely chopped
salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper
groundnut oil, to serve
Using a blender or food processor, blitz the peppers, tomatoes, onions, celery and ginger (if using) with 100ml water to a relatively smooth liquid. You might need to do this in batches, depending on the size of your equipment.
Place a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the palm oil or coconut oil. Once it has melted, add the pepper mix, increase the heat to medium–high and cook for roughly 5 minutes until its colour changes from a pastel red to a dark, fiery red.
In a measuring jug, add 200ml boiling water to the stock cube, garlic granules, ground cloves and the carob powder, if using. Stir to dissolve the stock cube and then pour into the pan with the pepper mix. Add the chopped Scotch bonnets and season to taste with salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Stir, then place the lid on the pan and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat back to medium–low and cook for a further 10 minutes until reduced to a rich soup. By this point any tanginess from the peppers should be gone and the soup will taste almost sweet.
Divide between four bowls and drizzle over some groundnut oil to serve.
NOTES
Because this soup is eaten so often, many Nigerian households use double or triple the quantity of ingredients, blend the vegetables and then freeze them in portions. The frozen pepper paste can be added straight to the pan with the stock and spices. It’s also very common to add some form of protein to turn the soup into a stew. Favourites include chicken thighs or drumsticks, firm white fish or diced beef and tripe.
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